took these 2 girls surfing today. been taking one of them since she was 2 years old, and the other from 6 years old. both of them progressing, and both of them having the time of their lives!
if you can surf with your best friend, that’s like a dream come true. best friends, best surf, and best memories.
so many surfers tell me “oh man, the waves are shitty!” nothing is shitty about a head high wave with off shore perfect conditions. today was not just a good day of surfing, it was a great day of surfing! just ask these girls!
where ever you look, you will go. so if you want to turn right, look at diamond head!
and keep your knees bent, look forward, and ride till the end! this is a classic example of perfect surfing taught by a 11 year old girl.
and when you wipe out, don’t panic. come up laughing and do it again! surfing is all about having fun. sorry girls for making you guys come in early today. take you guys again next week!
working till thursday and going to chase down some waves again. i’m pretty much up for anything as i learned how to be patient. if it happens, it happens. if it doesn’t, it doesn’t. i actually had fun staying in hawaii this past week hanging out with friends, surfing, diving, and enjoying my life. if i have to do it again next week, i’m not complaining! i’m just going to go with the flow. have a wonderful evening!
