woke up and had a few meetings before i went to the beach. i was expecting small surf but a south/west swell popped up out of nowhere. the sets were head high and absolutely perfect! we caught so many good waves in the perfect conditions and i knew not too many people knew about it because the ocean was empty! super lucky day!
then i drove by diamond head on the way back home and the waves were super good. some overhead surf with only a few surfers out.
rights and lefts peeling for long rides.
wanted to thank Goki-san for sending me this awesome sunset photo of isanoura beach, wakayama. i miss japan!
it was time to take customize a rock wall in my driveway so my car door doesn’t hit it, or my boat, or myself. this guy came over to do the work and this is half way done. should be completed tomorrow. and when the rock wall guy came over, told me, “hey, your grandpa did an excellent job building these walls. my grandpa chiseled rock by rock by himself to build these walls around our property. it is 75 years young and still super strong. i’m really proud of my grandpa when people praise his work. it makes me smile.
and last, the drive home in the afternoon after a hard day of work greeted by a colorful rainbow. i’m starting to love hawaii more than ever and i’m not too sure if i want to leave here anymore.
surfing more and more tomorrow. hope the south swell hangs around for a few more days because it feels so good taking off on a head high wave, going down the line, and doing a big off the lip! a stress free life!
