Hawaiian Storm, Taiwan Boar, and Philippine Dream!

202

ok, i get up early, go surfing, the waves were perfect! the weather was perfect! sunshine and rainbows and long rides. it was just a beautiful morning! after that dream session, i decide to take my boat out for a dive/surf session. i was out in the middle of the sea when the craziest storm i’ve ever been in hit.
photo
the thick black clouds came in, the wind switched, the current was ripping, the waves were building, and it was raining so hard that i couldn’t see anything ahead. there were chest high wind swells coming from the shore straight at my boat, the current was turning it one way, the wind turning it another. then when the waves started breaking in my boat, i started to worry. for the past 25 years since i had a boat, this was the first time something like this happened. i was almost going to jump on my surfboard and paddle to the beach. the only thing that prevented me from doing that was i couldn’t see the beach. i couldn’t see anything! 1 hour later, the sun came out, the weather cleared up, and it was paradise again. what a weird day! lucky to survive that crazy storm!
photo 3
on our last day in taiwan, Kimura-san and i stopped by for a quick lunch on the way to the train station. i ordered the mountain boar noodle soup.
photo 4
it was so good! and only cost $2.
photo 2
and the gyoza was the best i’ve ever had before. i swear i’d fly back there just to eat at this place. it was that good!
photo 5
and yeah, the shinkansen system in taiwan is much easier to use than the japanese system. just one train going north to south. cheap and easy!
philli
ok, check out this photo my friend in the philippines sent me today. this was today! OMG! if the swell lasts until this weekend, i’m there! i love waves like this!!!! i’m jumping on flight leaving thursday and like usual, still didn’t pack, and still don’t know where i’m going. it all depends on the waves! and if the waves are like this, there’s no doubt in my mind where i’m going. see you there!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide