Surf and Smile

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check out the action yesterday morning. the girls requested a professional photo session taken by Daniel Pinho.
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my goal as a surf instructor is to take everybody’s surfing to another level. you can call me strict, you can call me loud, or you can call me mean. but after you’re done surfing, i can guarantee you that your surfing will improve a level or two. nobody knows the feeling of catching good waves better than i do. so my goal is to get you into the best wave of the day, and for you to surf your dream! and also bring out that smile that’s within yourself! here is Risa-chan getting ready for a great surf session.
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and safety is top priority. i’m always watching who i’m with, and always watching the whole ocean to prevent accidents.
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it was Miko-san’s first time surfing so we took it slow. but once i seen her paddling out, i knew she was going to be good. yeah, you can tell just by the paddle because it shows the confidence level. and when you have confidence, you can do anything.
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Risa-chan is always smiling! from the time i pick her up to the time i drop her off, she’s always smiling. what a great way to live your life.
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i try to get behind the person on some waves to push their limits even more. if you got me behind you yelling what to do, you will do it. haha. i try not to do this too much because it’s just too much pressure on some people. i was telling Risa-chan to turn right more and more!
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then the next wave, she did it by herself. i couldn’t believe how good she was surfing yesterday. 100x better than last year.
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i always tell people to turn right, ride the wave until it almost ends, then to turn left and ride it all the way. this is the start of the perfect left turn. first look left, then turn your shoulders left, then your body and board will follow. this is absolutely perfect!
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Miko-san was very nervous on the way to the beach. it was her first time surfing so she was totally new to the sport. after a few demonstrations on the beach, it was time to surf. she stood up on her first wave! that’s awesome for a first time surfer to stand up on their first wave. then we improved her form wave by wave. then after the 2nd wave she ever caught in her life, i told her “it’s time to go to the far outside and catch big waves!” we paddled out, and caught set after set. not too many people can jump up 3 levels in 3 waves but Miko-san did.
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she was turning right like she’s been surfing for years. i’m pretty sure she’s hooked and will surf for sure when she gets back to japan.
good job girls! keep on surfing in japan and hope to see you next year!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide