what an amazing day! got up early, met our new friends out in front of our hotel. jumped in 2 cars, drove to the harbor, chartered a local fisherman boat for the day, bought a fresh tuna and shrimp from the fish market, loaded up the boat, headed out to some remote islands, found surf, surfed, cooked lunch on an island, picked shells, took a nap, came back to the harbor, took a nap, walked, ate dinner, invited to a bonfire, and just came back now. what a super long day it was. so tired that my eyes are shutting. should i go to the lobby and upload this blog and get by hungry mosquitos? or go to sleep as my bed is calling me. set my alarm for 5am, going to surf early, eat breakfast, and explore on the last day. getting tired and my body is feeling it now. just found out i have a 8 hour layover at nagoya airport on friday. anybody know a good sushi restaurant or izakaya in nagoya? japanese food is all i want to eat before i get back to hawaii. omg, my eyes are shutting. going to upload this blog first thing in the morning. good night!
good morning 5am. gosh, fell asleep in 1 second last night. going to upload some photos and go for a surf. i checked it and it’s pumping!!! 4′ barreling beach break waves. nobody out! yeah!!!
there is a beach break right in front of our hotel. yesterday was 2-3′ and perfect. today is double the size and i can’t wait to go out and get barreled!
we met locals, they took us to their secrets spot, we surfed, we had fun, and we will never forget out amazing session!
the locals here surf super good! and are super cool and friendly. i wish everywhere in the world could be like here. but unfortunately, it’s not. there is a good surfing vibe here and everybody supports each other. that’s how i think surfing should be and i’ll be coming back here more often.
we pull up the a big fishing market/harbor. was super cool seeing the morning auction of fish, shrimp, sharks, and so many different kinds of seafood.
went to buy 20 pieces of bread to take on the boat. costed me 50 cents or 50 yen. it’s so cheap here.
such a cool lifestyle. i’m really going to miss it. by the way, the waves were going off yesterday. surfed 3-4′ perfect long lefts. kind of like an indonesia style break but something super different. nobody out and nobody surfs there. i like that kind of different.
we bought a tuna, some shrimp, and rice. then the local surfers took us to this remote island, made a barbecue, and grilled us the freshest and healthiest lunch. seafood lunch for 10 of us costed about $10. unbelievable.
anyway, wanted to thank our new local surfer friends here in the philippines. we had a great time yesterday. thank you for the fun karaoke night, thank you for taking us to your secret surf spots, thank you for making us that amazing bonfire last night, thank you for sharing your waves, and thank you for your hospitality. this is what surfing should be and i just want to say something “never change your way!” keep simple, keep pure, and keep on surfing! aloha and see you again.
