omg, yesterday has to had been one of the longest days in my life here in hawaii. i left my house at 7 in the morning and came back at 9:30 at night. 10 different boards in and out of the truck, 3 different groups at 3 different times, and about a total of hundred waves ridden. yeah, i had a long day but as i was driving home last night, i told myself again and again “gosh, you are a lucky man!” i met new amazing people and shared wave after wave all day long!
Hana-chan’s been surfing for 8 years but surfs like she’s been surfing for 20 years. she rode a fun board and caught so many good waves at bowls and rock piles. she was practicing to do a cutback and she did the perfect round house cutback on a perfect wave. i was super stoked to see her ripping and enjoying her first surf here in hawaii. hey Hana-chan, i had a wonderful morning with you. surfing, eating, and sightseeing. keep on surfing and hope to see you again!
then i had a late evening session with the Yamada-san family. also their first surf here in hawaii. we paddled out late afternoon and surfed super empty waves. super stoked to see such a wonderful family enjoying hawaii. to the Yamada-san family, hope you enjoyed your surf session. wish you great surf sessions in wakayama and remember to surf, look straight ahead, bend your knees, and smile!
and a hungry surfer needs protein. and the best place to power up after a great surf session is Imanas! nowhere can beat this chanko nabe!
with a side order of prime beef. OMG, so happy!
we surf everyday and we always have fun! 2 wonderful people that changed my life for the better. welcome back to hawaii Inaida-san and Yuki-san. you surfed so good these past 2 days! Thank you for everything you have done for me in my life. i still think i’m dreaming so please don’t wake me up. haha. keep on surfing and keep on living the surfers dream life! oh, and thank you for the oishi dinner!
