Sugiyama-san went from unlucky to lucky. when i woke up early this morning to check the waves, it was totally flat! i picked him up and told him the bad news. “omg, the waves are so small today, i’m sorry.” we look around and nothing. then i totally forgot about this little shallow reef that catches every kind of swell. we check it, it was good, and we paddled out. as soon as we got out, the waves started getting better and better. lots of waves and lots of barrels. i got barreled 8x today! and Sugiyama-san caught over 40 waves in the 2.5 hours we were out. he was happy, i was happy, so everybody was happy. i was super stoked to meet you Sugiyama-san! great marathon session today! and thank you Hide-san for the intro! hope to surf with you someday in hawaii too!
then i went to pick up the little surfer girls. i use to ask them all the time “hey, do you girls want to surf?” they use to say “no thank you.” now, they ask me “let’s go surfing!” and of course i say “yeah, let’s go-naminori!” i loaded up their boards, they jumped in, we paddled out and caught so many good waves. long rides and everlasting memories as surf buddies. i love these little surfer girls!
