Laughters and Tears

215

today was awesome!!!! everyday is a lucky day for me because i’m alive!!!!
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i took Yumi-san surfing this morning and it was so amazing. from the perfect waves, to the dolphins jumping, to the hawaiian ceremony, to the laughter, to the tears. it was mixed emotions but i couldn’t have asked for a better place to be.
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Yumi-san is a yoga teacher in japan so her balance is amazing! this isn’t easy to do.
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then second round Team Ina. if Yuki-san entered a contest, i think she would win!
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Inaida-san caught some awesome waves this afternoon. long rides both ways.
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the weather was calling for heavy rain this past few days. all i seen was heavy blue sky!
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this morning i paddled out to a locals hawaiian ceremony at bowls. it’s days like this that changes my life. makes me think how lucky i am, and makes me appreciate my life, my friends, every single minute of every single day. i just want to let you know if i die today, i lived a fulfilling life. and i thank you all for that!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide