had a super fun session with Morishita-san this morning. Morishita-san is from shikoku island and remembered watching me surf yasuda river mouth more than 15 years ago. i still remember that session because the waves were 6′, perfect, and one of the best typhoon swells that ever hit japan. anyway, today wasn’t 6′ but Morishita-san sure surfed well. caught some nice waves and had a smile on his face all day long. we ate a poke bowl and some shave ice to complete the perfect morning session. congratulations Morishita-san on your honeymoon trip to hawaii and keep on surfing!
a few days ago, the weather report called for heavy rain everyday. all i seen was heavy sun! i’m so sunburnt!!!
thank you Yumi-san for the delicious mochi from osaka!
thank you Sugiyama ford the japanese snacks!
diamond head looked super fun this afternoon. just perfect long walls with not too many surfers out. i had my fun 2 rounds of surfing today and will for the rest of this month and most of next. been working so much in the ocean and also been working so much on a huge dream project. a project which includes, diving, surfing, a club, a boat, speed, champagne, friends, sunsets, and many memories. it’s so exciting that i can’t sleep at night. haha.
