gosh, what another wonderful day! good waves, good friends, good food, good drinks, and good memories. it’s so weird how life gets more and more interesting day by day. been slacking on responding to emails recently because i’m hardly home to even go on my computer anymore. i leave my house at 7am and come home at 9pm. it’s kind of like salaryman hours but my office is in the ocean and on the road. i love it!
i took Yumi-san surfing again today. last year, she told me that she surfed before and got seriously hurt so wanted to quit. so we took it really slow, got her up, and she started feeling a little more comfortable. this year, Yumi-san’s super confident, comfortable, and surfing super good. after catching a lot of good waves, we decided to go to one of my favorite places in the world. one reason is it’s my sort of power spot, another reason was to sit on the rocks and eat lunch, and the main reason was to combat fear. one way to do that is to jump off a cliff into rough ocean waves, and rock climb your way back up.
i tell her “don’t even think, just walk to the ledge and GO!” she went, again, and again. now Yumi-san’s a lot more comfortable with the ocean, with herself, and what ever comes her way. facing your fear makes you a stronger person with a lot more confidence.
after Yumi-san jumped, these guys from california took off their backpacks, shirts, and wanted to jump too. i guess they were inspired. 2 of the guys jumped and 2 of the others said no way. then once the guys jumped, i told myself, “ok guys, that was the easy part, now is the hard part.” yeah, getting out of the ocean is very very dangerous. you have to climb up the side of the cliff with big open ocean waves pounding you into the rocks. if you mistime it, you won’t make it. one of the guys tried over and over and couldn’t get back up. i could see in his face that he was starting to panic. i could hear his breaths getting shorter and shorter. so i climb down, tell him to grab my hand, i pulled him up, he said thank you, put on his tshirt, and left. many people die at this spot and if nobody was around, this guy could have lived a very short life. everybody please be careful because the hawaiian waters kill so many people every year.
thank you for another wonderful day Yumi-san. see you again on monday!
no winds and great weather continue. have a long day tomorrow with the film crew in the morning and my surf crew in the afternoon. everybody’s surfing so good and big smiles all day long! can’t wait to wake up tomorrow morning. good night!
