first want to wish my family and friends in japan a safe day. this huge typhoon is going to hit japan tomorrow and dump rain, winds, and all kinds of trouble. please be safe!
woke up at 4:30am, picked up Yumi-san because it was her dream to surf at sunrise. and because most of my dreams come true, it’s my duty to make others dreams come true too. we paddle out at dark, watch the beautiful pink sky light up, and get ready for the first wave of the day.
right at the sun starts to rise over diamond head, we catch our first wave, i take the shot, and this moment will be remembered forever. a girl who was scared to surf last year enjoying one of the most beautiful mornings of the year. perfect glassy conditions and perfect waves all day!
then another of her dreams was to go to heaven’s beach, lanikai. and today was the picture perfect day for that. it was empty, the water was emerald, the sand was white, and the sky was blue. it’s days like this that make it worth the drive over the mountain. this beach is freaking amazing!
did some yoga on the beach. namaste all day long! then we went to look at boats, and headed back to town. then i picked up my afternoon Inaida-san crew for a surf and guess what? we paddled out to bowls and there was NOBODY out! not even one person in the lineup as we caught every wave that came in. good rides and good times. yesterday we scored rockpiles with nobody out, and today we scored bowls with nobody out. it’s a 3 day weekend and i don’t know why. but hey, i’ll take it! lucky surfers forever!
then i got to see this amazing sunset. i was out all day from sunrise to sunset and had a fulfilling day. i couldn’t ask for a better life than this. it’s almost 10pm and i just got home. waking up at 4:30am tomorrow and doing the same thing from sunrise to sunset. thank you for giving me this beautiful day here in hawaii ne! good night.
