good morning. still got some waves in town. looks like 3′ and semi clean. not as clean as yesterday morning but still looking fun. got a bunch of guys out at bowls and probably 200 guys out at diamond head again. heard it was nuts yesterday. north shore is big. 8′ with a close interval swell. the waves are close together and not that good. sunny day again so get out and enjoy. i’m out of here..
want hardcore? this is hardcore…. do i want to try it? no way….
**though i’d share this message i got from a friend. i totally agree….
Life is too short to wake up with regrets. So love the people who treat you right. Forget about the one’s who don’t. Believe everything happens for a reason. If you get a second chance, grab it with both hands. If it changes your life, let it. Nobody said life would be easy, they just promised it would be worth it.
