omg, what a long day! i left my house at 5:30am and just got home now at 9:30pm. another full day of fun!
we paddled out at bowls again at first light. super calm wind, super good waves, and super long rides. after the sun rose, it was time to move on to other things. loaded up the boards in the truck and headed east.
got to sandy beach, picked shells, bodysurfed the shorebreak, had fun, and laughed.
i grew up at this beach. from riding bicycle to surf the shorebreak before high school, to riding my skateboard, to catching the beach bus, to hitch hiking, to driving my own car. anyway possible, my mission was to make it to sandy beach! 30 years later, i’m still here!
thank you Yumi-san for a wonderful 4 days in hawaii. i had so much fun, experienced a lot of things, and had some great memories. have a safe trip back to japan and surf with you again soon.
last, i’ve been wearing my favorite shorts everyday recently. i didn’t even realize that there was a big hole! my white ass hanging out all day long? omg, i’m so embarrassed!
tomorrow i finally have some time off so i’ll be chasing one of my dreams. meetings, money, decisions, and results. i have so little time to get lots done. stay tuned!
