omg, i passed by diamond head early this morning and couldn’t believe how perfect it was! then i went to pick up Abe-san and we came back to surf perfect glassy waves for over 3 hours. super fun, super clean, and super happy!
then we came in a about 12 and so did everybody else. i counted only 4 people out at right hands. if this were japan, there would be 200 surfers out for sure. it was just super perfect and super fun for all levels!
want to thank Abe-san for the super fun surf. i was so happy to see him catch so many long waves and rip it! his level went way up from last year and so did his smile. good surfing equals good life.
then i took Abe-san to my new favorite filipino food at diamond head. Fort Ruger Market on Alohea Street selling filipino plates for $7.95. my 2 choices were the fried pork and the chocolate meat. chocolate meat is pork cooked in pig blood! super good for you cause it gives you blood power!
have a great day! that’s what i’ve been doing!
the north shore finally woke up this afternoon. tomorrow morning i’m going to wake up at 4am, head to the north shore, find some barrels before light, then be back in town by 9am for work. winter season has begun and i’m looking forward to some much needed barrel time!
