OMG, the waves were absolutely perfect again today. well, more perfect than the other days because the wind was offshore all day long. diamond head has been the best conditions for the past 2 weeks! it’s so cool to pass by in the morning knowing that everywhere will be good!
i picked up Hideki and Miki Takahashi this morning. a lovely husband and wife from chiba? i just assumed they were married because they had such a good relationship but i was wrong! Hideki-san told me “excuse me kirby, Miki is my younger sister.” haha. OMG! i felt so embarrassed. Hideki-san surfs sunrise in chiba and is a super good surfer. i saw him do a nice carving off the lip at rockpiles. i said “wow, nice turn!” he said “that was the first time in my life i did a turn like that.” i was super stoked for him as he caught so many good waves at rockpiles. we actually had it to ourselves for a little while.
Miki-san’s first surf of her life. she did awesome! we had such a great time. a super energetic and funny husband and wife. OH, i mean brother and sister. haha. i still feel embarrassed about that.
then i went to take Nanami-san surfing. Nanami-san lives in colorado and is a ski instructor. she wanted to surf like her friend Ai-san so i’m trying to get her up to that level. after 2 days, she’s catching waves by herself, turning, and she even tried a cross step. just super talented and super energetic! we have 2 more sessions and after we’re done, she’ll be surfing like a pro. the waves were so perfect this afternoon as the wind turned offshore and we had our little surf spot to ourselves! gosh, it was just another perfect day in my office!
japan is getting slammed and slammed by typhoons. everybody please be safe!
and last, a 13 year old kid in nevada went to school with a automatic gun and started shooting. the kid said “you ruined my life, now i’m going to ruin yours!” then he shot 2 classmates, killed a teacher, then killed himself. people say he was bullied. i can feel for the people that got shot, and i can feel for the kid too. i was once bullied and somedays i felt like ruining the peoples lives that were ruining mine too. it’s sad, but it’s such a big problem in both america and japan. i hope nobody every has to go through getting bullied as a kid. it sucks! and nobody wins.
