i have a few more shots from yesterday i wanted to post. this is one of them.
we pray for rain, we pray for the perfect bank, we pray for the perfect typhoon, we pray for the perfect wind, and we pray for the perfect weather. once in 20 years all this comes together. yesterday was “THE DAY”….
this wave looks like 3 waves but it’s actually only one. some of the waves were thicker than tahiti and okinawa put together. and all breaking over little pebble rocks. i got smashed on the bottom 3x pretty hard and it actually felt good. if it was reef, i wouldn’t be posting a blog now, i’d be in the hospital….
after our crazy session, we drove to kamakura to check out the action. and boy, there was a lot of action. i haven’t seen so many happy surfers in a while….
after a few good waves, who gives a shit about traffic. it’s all good!!! good night….
