good morning. well, i couldn’t have timed everything any better. i left hawaii 1 week ago and surfed 2 great typhoon swells. one in okinawa, and one in shonan. i’m surfed out, i’m happy, and i’m ready to move on to timor. my bags are packed, my guns are ready, and it’s going to be surfing and diving for the next 2 weeks. something i really need and something i really deserve. it’s been a great busy year and when i think back to january 1 2010, i’m doing what i told myself to do this year. work hard, and play hard. keep busy and maximize everyday like it’s going to be my last. then when january 1, 2011 comes, i’m going to re-evaluate everything and take it from there. that said, i better get going! have a great day!!!!
where else in the world will you find a full-suit surfer in mcdonalds? only in kugenuma….
5000th store in the world? wow, kugenuma has some history. i remember having my english lessons there back in the early 1990’s. oh the memories…
after we bought an ice cream cone, we went to check the waves at kugenuma. right as we got to the beach, i was ready to lick my ice cream and this freaking HUGE hawk swept down on me and tried to grab my ice cream cone. we fought for 5 minutes as he wouldn’t let his claws off my cone. i refused to let go! then i grabbed the hawk by the neck and said “let go!” and he did. wait!!! the last part i made up. the real story is the hawk flew right down between eri-chan and me and tried to take my cone then i screamed like a girl. it was pretty funny…
i wanted my revenge so i held out the last piece of my cone and waited for it to come back. Man vs. Wild…..
