what another wonderful day in the water and out. the waves were going off on all shores today. north shore 4-6′ and perfect, south shore 2-3′ and perfect. light off shore winds making it a memorable day in the water.
these 2 sisters are super funny. Kanako and Sachiko Tsubota. i took them surfing 2 years ago and i remember laughing from the time i picked them up till the time i dropped them off. today was no different. energetic kobe chicks just enjoying their life to the fullest. they both surfed really good and i’m sure i’ll see them again!
we surfed and went on an eating spree. ate pho, acai bowl, and malasadas in 1 hour. the girls had their cameras and took over a hundred photos and video clips. i took this one of these 2 sisters that know how to enjoy life. what a beautiful photo and what a beautiful day!
then i dropped the sisters off, went home, switched boards, and went to pick up Satoko-san. born on a tiny island off okinawa and now living in fukuoka. a super cool girl that loves to surf, and loves to travel. Satoko-san caught so many good waves, one was head high and perfect! we surfed, then went to drink some fresh ginger/celery/carrot/cucumber juice. after we both took a sip, our faces turned super sour. it was good, but it didn’t taste good. but if it’s good for the body, i’ll drink it! kampai! by the way, check out that rainbow in the right side of the photo. freaking amazing nature!
then we jumped into the truck and drove to the top of the world! omg, i felt like i was in heaven again!
watched the sunset, then things got dark as the honolulu lights lit up. when i drove home this evening, i had the biggest smile on my face. i had an awesome day surfing and enjoying the hawaiian life with 3 wonderful japanese girls. i better go to sleep because tomorrow morning i’m going to dawn patrol backdoor!!!! going to start dreaming of barrels. good night.
