i leave my house before 5am. it is pitch black but i knew the waves were going to be perfect. i pull up in the dark, seen some solid 6′ sets with so much energy. i grab my 7’0, run down the beach. i was excited. i jump in, get taken down the beach like a river in the current. i paddle my fastest to get out as i seen perfect waves breaking like a dream. i get to the lineup, my heart is pumping, i’m freaking so happy. then i see a set, i was in no frame of mind to catch my biggest wave of the season with my heart beating so fast. so i talk to myself “hey, slow down, take deep breaths, remember to paddle hard, don’t look down, and just go for the barrel!” then here is comes! a perfect 6′ thick backdoor wave. i paddle, take off super steep with the nose of my board going straight down, i focus, bottom turn, pull into a big barrel, come out, and i tell myself “happy new year!” the 2013-2014 north shore season has begun!!!!
i ended up catching a couple really good barrels. it was uncrowded, only locals today. good to see my friends all getting barreled. i’m out by 8:30am. sitting up at the billabong house waiting for the morning traffic back to town to cool off. i jump into the truck, and i’m back in town before 10am. as i’m driving home, i see surfers on the freeway heading to the north shore, i’m thinking to myself “you guys are too late.” today was my first day off since i got back to hawaii on october 4th. i didn’t know what to do as i had the afternoon off. so i grab my mask, jump on my boat, and go dive for shells. another wonderful tropical hawaiian day!
yesterday, pro surfer Carlos Burle set the new world record for biggest wave ever ridden in portugal. this is crazy!
then his partner Maya Gabeira suffered the biggest wipeout ever on this wave.
the poor girl drowned! she got pounded wave after wave and was finally unconscious. they dragged her body to the beach and gave her CPR. surfers saving surfers. unreal!
check out the rescue. high risk, high return. or almost no return!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr_tpyrcs6Q[/youtube]
