wow, another long day. left my house at 6:30am and just came home now at 9:15pm. spend most of my day on my boat in the ocean surfing and diving. super happy to ride my baby! today was the perfect day to go exploring and trying new things.
the water was so smooth today. feels so good speeding up and down the coast with surfboards ready to surf. no dolphin sightings today but must have seen over 40 turtles all day long.
there is a secret spot that catches the swell on the smallest days. and since bowls was flat, we went exploring and surfed a spot where i use to paddle out to when i was 12 years old. Inaida-san and Yuki-san were stoked to surf a totally different wave with a totally different scenery. surfing from my boat is just too easy and i think i’m getting spoiled. i forgot how to paddle already? haha.
every since i went to japan and sat on counters watching sushi chefs prepare fish, i learned a lot. here is one of the menpachi’s i prepared the other day. i still want to get better and better and the only way is to practice and practice. ganbarimasu!
super tired again and hope to get to bed before 10pm. waking up tomorrow at 4:30am and surfing all day. than you again for this wonderful day!
