had a super fun morning surfing with Yokota-san. it’s his second vacation trip to hawaii in the past 6 months so he’s a very lucky surfer. we surfed at bowls last time, so decided to surf somewhere different today.
diamond head was the best spot today. i love surfing there but don’t love the walk down the hill. it’s a hike/surf session but when the waves are good, it’s all ok!
a super cool surfer that loves to surf. Yokota-san on the TSSC FatBat.
surfing ala moana side is like surfing the city. surfing diamond head is is like surfing the nature. so close, but yet so far. we had such a great time surfing cliffs first with 30 surfers, then we paddled to lighthouse and surfed with only 2. lighthouse was probably the most uncrowded spot on the island today. score!
i see the craziest things in hawaii. this japanese surfer guy on the left, and his girlfriend on the right. the girlfriend jumped in the water and i could tell she was a decent surfer. the boyfriend on the left jumped into the water and when i saw him paddle his short board, i knew he was a beginner. the wrong size surfboard for his level. i thought to myself “this guy won’t catch a wave.” and sure enough, he was out trying, but no way even close to riding a wave. i almost wanted to paddle up to him and let him try the fat bat, but Yokota-san was using it so that was not an option. if you paddle out with too short of a board, you won’t catch waves and will have the worst surf experience in hawaii. but if you paddle out with the right surfboard for your level, you will have a dream session. my advise? take a guide from somebody that can lend you the right equipment to make your hawaiian surfing experience one to remember.
going to sleep, waking up early, and going to play in the ocean all day tomorrow. can’t wait till the morning comes! good night.
