Freak South Swell?

185

photo 1
Sachiko-san and Ayano-chan have such a great relationship. for mother and daughter to come to hawaii for a surf trip is freaking awesome. both getting so much better in surfing and i was super stoked to watch them both have a wonderful time this morning. we pulled up and i was surprised there were waves! and when we got out, it kept on getting bigger and bigger, and better and better. nobody knew about the swell this morning so it was really uncrowded. lucky for us! we ate a teddy’s burger for lunch and i’m still full! haha.
photo 2
cool mother and daughter surfer team! hope to surf with you again and again. level up and up!
photo 3
surfed again this afternoon with Team Ina and the waves got even bigger and bigger. it’s been a while since the south shore had a swell so everybody was super happy! the rainbows out, the winds offshore, and some overhead sets!
photo 4
i took my boat out this evening because i had to clean it. seen some perfect waves again and again at bowls.
photo 5
then at 5pm, i stopped in the channel and seen a 10 wave set! gosh, i wish i had my board in my boat!!!!
but hey, tomorrow the swell should be sticking around with perfect off shore winds. going early and hopefully catch a lot of good waves before this endless summer is over. going to surf from sunrise to sunset. good night!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide