good evening. today was such a cool day in japan. the past 3 days, i finally got to take my afternoon nap. up until a year ago, i use to take afternoon naps everyday. not anymore. too much things to do now days and it feels pretty good doing it. i was thinking to myself that if i skipped my afternoon naps i took for most of my life, i would have gotten better waves, caught more fish, and more important, made more friends. what a waste of time, but it felt so good at the time. anyway, heading to chiba tomorrow with naoka. got to get up early. goodnight….
i went diving the other day in nanki, wakayama. seen some huge “kumu’s”. i don’t know if japanese eat them but this is the best eating fish in hawaii. and also the hardest to find. put this boy in a steamer and it’s all good….
these are some of the oysters we got in wakayama. it’s so big that they have to cut it up in pieces. so creamy. after eating these oysters, i could never eat another oyster in hawaii ever again…
and wanted to thank akko for helping me out at the post office. i put my card in the machine and couldn’t remember my password. with everything in japanese, i was a lost gaigin in japan. shit, i felt so dam helpless…..
it’s been a few years since the tsunami rolled over banda aceh, north sumatra. they are still rebuilding there but life goes on. and so does surfing. check out benji weatherly and the bali boys ripping it up. i was kind of happy seeing this video because surfing there will put a lot of money into an economy that really needs it. with the negative, comes the positive… CLICK HERE FOR THE TRAILER…..
if looks could kill…..
