Big Deadly Wednesday

242

1311-reef_hawaiiian_
welcome to Big Wednesday. wow, the first major swell of the year. too big even for the haleiwa contest to start. back in the days, the contest would be on no matter what. but now, they cancel it due to big dangerous conditions? i was kind of shocked to hear it being cancelled because these are the days that separate the men from the boys. it’s survival of the fittest and the survival will make rounds. you can leave your magic 5’10 at home because only a big gun will get you into waves like today.
2993751_G
so stoked to see so many photos all over the web so fast these days. check out waimea bay! big and crowded.
Screen shot 2013-11-14 at 2.07.52 PM
was super bummed to hear the news of big wave north shore surfer Kirk Passmore today. he caught a 20′ wave around noon today, wiped out, and is missing. the were trying to look for him all afternoon with no luck. the search will continue tomorrow. a high risk for the ultimate ride. i just hope they find him.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide