gosh, been waking up at 4am everyday. feeling so fresh and excited for the sun to come up. can’t go back to sleep, maybe because i’ve been sleeping at 9pm every night? anyway, i passed by diamond head early in the morning and the waves looked really fun. head high sets and perfect!
went surfing with Hayashi-san. such a cool and great surfer from tokyo. today she learned how to ride the wave forever, and also learned how to turn left. we had such a great morning session surfing perfect waves with nobody around us.
watched a triple crown heat early in the morning. super stoked to see the 3 moniz brother representing hawaii. this is the major league of surfing and only the worlds best can make it into this venue.
16 year old Seth Moniz winning his first round heat? are you kidding? no i’m not. what a way to start his career in the triple crown of surfing.
and yes, mommy and daddy tammy and tony always supporting their kids. unreal!
as being the youngest of the 5 kids, Seth is the most hungry of them all. he’s not scared to beat top world professionals, and he’s not scared to beat world champions. this kid is just taking the steps necessary to achieving his dream as the ASP World Champion! round by round Seth. just keep on going forward!
another standout is Japanese charger Kaito Ohashi. i knew this kid before he even picked up a surfboard. now he’s competing with the big boys. super stoked to see a japanese pro surfer excelling on the north shore of oahu.
well, contest should continue tomorrow. Seth’s round 2 heat is the first in the morning so look at a 8am start. it’s 8pm and my bed is calling me. another long day in the ocean and another big smile on my pillow. good night!
Contest Photos by ASP
