Rob Machado, Menchies, Kaori, Sunset Surfers

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i seen Rob Machado yesterday at the beach and because Furuya-san is a fan of his, i asked him if he could take a photo. i’ve known Rob for 23 years ever since i met him at the world contest in japan. he’s always been really nice to me and always takes the time out to say hi and chat. yesterday i told him that it was such a cool thing for him to go to sendai and do that great film about the tree house for kids. i asked him what he thought about the progress in tohoku and he said “some places good, others still the same.” if there is anybody that could totally relate to him, that would be me. he started to share his past trip to sendai to me and i could see in his face he was getting emotional. we couldn’t talk for too long but i’m sure the next time i see him, we will surely catch up on the things he experienced. Rob Machado is a very inspirational surfer and i’m so happy that he went to tohoku so he could spread the word to the rest of the world.
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on the way back to bowls for our afternoon session, Furuya-san and i stopped by Menchies at Ward. it happened to be the 5th year anniversary so they had a $5 all you can fit in your bowl special.
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this was mine. it was so good!
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and this was Furuya-san’s. can you believe we ate it all?
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then i get out of the water for round 2 at bowls. i bump into Mr. and Mrs. Destiny! somebody should write a love novel about this lovely couple. nice to see you again Kaori-chan and Ryouta! keep the dream alive!
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then round 3 right before dark session. an awesome group with big hearts.
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i got Matsu taking off on his last wave. it felt so good riding the waves in the pink clouds!
it was another long day and today will be one too. i’m trying to get a flight out of hawaii on tuesday. but tuesday is tuesday and today is today. i’m taking things as they come and for now, the waves are here, my friends are here, and i am here. i’ve been so busy this past year that i don’t even know how i keep up with myself. a part of me is telling me to slow down, and another part is telling me to go faster!!! gotta go! haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide