KFC, MCDONALD'S, AND TONY ROMA'S IN ONE DAY….

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salamat pagi or good morning from bali!
after 11 long wonderful days of surf, dive, fish, sunrises, sunsets, bintangs, shells, i’m finally off the boat.
we traveled half of indonesia and experienced things that not too many can experience in their lifetimes.
i’m glad to be off the boat but already miss sleeping with the stars, and waking up with the golden sunrise.
as soon as i got off the boat, i went to KFC and ate a lot of chicken, and as soon as i was done, i drove to McDonald’s and ate a delicious ice cream.
then i was driving in a remote area and seen a lady cooking up baby back ribs on a barbecue so i stopped and ate 2 plates along with ice cold bintangs.
we were eating indonesian food on the boat everyday so my tongue was craving something different. even a big mac looked so dam good…..
today? i think i will do the same course. i want to eat meat! and ice cream!
well, 3000 photos and hours of video have been taken. some for the magazine, and some for tv. i can’t show all but will give you a sneak preview in the coming days.
as for my emails? forget it. too many to check now. going back to hawaii soon and will get back to everyone. i refuse to sit in a hotel on my computer while i’m here in bali. i just have too many things i want to do…

this is the dinner table. this is where we gather for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. it’s a place to reflect on the days activities, and let me tell you, there were a lot….

there are many people i have to thank for making this such a wonderful trip for me. first, kyle nakamoto. i said it before and i’ll say it again. kyle and i have the same dream. a dream to share these experiences with everyone. and at the same time, get big fish, and get big barrels. this is a secret spot john callahan told me i must go to. 2 years ago, we scored, but this year, we scored even more. i swore to john that i wouldn’t tell anybody where this island is and i didn’t. maybe that’s why nobody was there? lucky i kept my mouth shut. and i hope everybody else on the trip will do the same….

we scored perfect waves for 6 days straight. no crowds, long 300 yard left points, perfect barreling rights, and even 2 crazy waves that can even make kelly slater scared. people say i’m lucky when it comes to waves, i still don’t think so. you just have to know where to go and when to pull the anchor. we all made the right choices for sure…. this is james oshiro. all of us on the boat agree that if james wasn’t there, the trip wouldn’t have been the same. james, your the man!
this right point we surfed might look perfect. it is. but if you seen the reef your riding over, you might think again. if you fall, your going to get cut up like a tuna getting cut up by a sushi chef. the razor sharp reef was making the ride more exciting and daring. was i scared? a little. i just played it safe and made sure i was going to make every barrel i pulled into. i didn’t make all but i punched out the back of the wave just in time. well, i lied, i was more than a little scared. i was freakin scared!!!
by the way, how were the waves in japan while i was gone? did i miss anything? i hope not. my upcoming schedule is to go back to hawaii for 5 days, then back to japan for the 35th annual dove users contest at yoshihama. then back to hawaii the day after and catch up with my regular life. this years travels are coming to an end and i’m going to start planning for next years. i can’t wait!!!
have a wonderful day!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide