omg, the waves were super good again today. just perfect conditions everywhere. another 6 hour surf day for me and i’m as sunburnt as i can possibly be. i went to Daisuke’s house just a little while ago and the first thing he said was “Wow, you are so BLACK!” yes, i’m a very dark man right now thanks to all the sun i’ve been soaking in.
i’ve been meeting the coolest people every day. people from all places in japan, all levels of surfing, and all personalities. it’s Koga-san’s first time to hawaii and after his waikiki surfing experience yesterday, he wasn’t so excited. today, he lucked out as the waves at diamond head were head high and perfect. and unlike yesterday, it was empty! it’s monday so everybody went back to work, except us! the blue sky, the green trees, the white sand, and clear water. what a beautiful day! and what great surfing!
from when Koga-san touched the water, he had a smile on his face the whole time. from paddling, to surfing, to paddling back out. he was so happy to be here in hawaii. a great surfer from chiba. want to say hello to Insideout Surf and mahalo for all the great surfers coming to hawaii.
i always tell everybody to stay underwater until it’s safe to come up. why? so the board doesn’t whack you in the head. well, today i was the victim. i came up, my board flew and whacked me in my head. i heard something crack and thought it was my head. come to find out, it was my magic board. omg! i must have a very hard head because i couldn’t feel anything.
then round 2 was with Inoue-san. a very nice gentlemen that loves to surf. we paddled out to bowls this afternoon and it was so uncrowded! perfect long lefts and we scored!
i meet people for the first time before we surf and sometimes they are nervous. but once we catch a few waves together, the nervousness goes away and the smiles come out. that’s the cool thing about surfing as i can make friends just by sharing waves. good surfing is good memories!
last night’s sunset was so pink it was unbelievable. watching it from the ilikai hotel, drinking some beers with friends, and having a small dinner party. what a perfect way to end the day.
yes, remember that monster tako i caught last week? my geisha girls cooked it up perfectly and it fed all all 7 of us. and we only ate half!
well, going to get my suitcase out, going to load it up, and when tomorrow comes, i’ll be on an airplane watching movies, sleeping, eating, and just relaxing on the 8.5 hour flight to tokyo. i have some things i’ve been wanting to do for a long time and that time has finally come. see you there!
