salamat malan from bali! hot and humid. been eating great food and taking some great photos. can’t wait to go back to hawaii!!!!
if you were a regular person, you would think us divers are crazy. we look for the strong currents, we look for the deep water, we look for the danger. why? because that’s where all the big fish are. we cut up fish and scatter the water with blood, we dive 100′ down and shoot things bigger than us, and on every decent, risking our lives. shallow water blackout? sharks? getting lost at sea? no help anywhere near and if we all went missing, nobody would even know. at the time, none of that is on my mind. but when i look back at the crazy dives we did, i think we’re pretty dam crazy!!!! and lucky to be alive….
this is my cousins husband Damon Schmitz. nobody on the boat surfed longer than him, and nobody on the boat drank more bintangs than him. Damon averaged 8 hours/day of water time. and 8/day of bintangs. a great guy to go on a trip with because he loves to have fun! i’m stoked to have become closer to him on this trip. by the way, Damon’s a lawyer who graduated from Punahou. same school as our wonderful President Obama….
gosh, i swear that indonesia kids are the cutest. every time i go into a village, one or two kids catch my eyes. for this trip, this was the golden child. look how beautiful his eyes are.
and last, i want to congratulate kelia moniz for making the cover of fine magazine. Fine magazine is the top surf/fashion magazine in japan. if you make it in Fine, your pretty much instantly famous. great job kelia. i know how hot it was on that beach that day….
**note. kelia’s longboard made 2 mainstream magazine covers in japan along as many spreads in magazines all over the world. one lucky girl won it at the Go-Naminori Party and i hope she treasures it forever….
