good morning. FLAT WAVES!!! YEAH!! after one month of back to back to back swells, the surf finally went flat. the water everywhere looks like a lake. now i can finally get some work done. like responding to hundreds of emails. sorry so late but i’m a surfer and that’s the way it goes. surfing is number 1 and everything else comes after. today is sunday and looks like it’s going to be a beautiful day. maybe i’ll go get a massage, have my nails done, and have my eyelashes curled while drinking a blue hawaii on some beach in waikiki. remember, this is paradise… got a call from kyle last night to do some blue water hunting today but i couldn’t make it. i really wanted to go but sometimes you got to make sacrifices i guess. i hope they catch a lot of big fish and i know they will score because today is probably the #1 best diving day of the year…. another perfect 6-8′ swell hitting the north shores tomorrow. if i wake up and the waves are still small, i’m going diving. if i wake up and the waves are big, i’m going surfing. pretty simple decision… anyway, hope you all have a beautiful sunday. like one of my favorite SPICE tshirts reads, “SLOW LIFE”. today, that’s me…. aloha…
**u-ske is not just a photographer, u-ske is an artist. every single photo he takes has some different angle to it. i hardly see him swimming around when i’m surfing but he always seems to get the shot. one example was a few years at a river mouth in japan. i was surfing all morning and didn’t see u-ske in the water. then a few months later when i opened the magazine, he had the most insane angle shot of one of my waves. i was super stoked…. yesterday at off the wall was just u-ske and i in the water so i was watching the man in action…
not only watching, i was documenting how he does it. this is freaking nuts. while i was swimming for my life going under a freak 8′ set at off the wall, i looked to the side and saw u-ske shooting from behind the wave. i think that’s pretty nuts….
i took an empty wave photo and when i saw it on my computer, u-ske was back deep in the barrel. somewhere you don’t want to be without a surfboard….
then i was checking out his helmet and asked if he drew that on the back. u-ske told me that one day after shooting big pipe, he went home and got out a pen and just drew this picture. that’s pretty artistic. what do i do after i go home after shooting big pipe. freaking sleep….
and last, i just wanted to show you the underwater world. a place i love. if you haven’t been there, you don’t know what your missing. and too all of my friends in japan that went home before the waves got good, get your ass back here. it’s not too late to get the barrel of you life. and now is the time….
