salamat sion. i just got out of the water and all i have to say is “i’m probably the luckiest surfer in the world.” yesterday and today, there were only a few surfers around. why? because this is a secret beach break that not on the surf maps. i got a few barrels that made my japan, okinawa, timor, and bali trip a lot more memorable. i’m ready to go back to hawaii and reset. i hope i can go back out later this evening to get a last barrel before the 27 hour journey back to hawaii. one last barrel and one last bintang? oh what a trip!!!
it’s all about respect. made took seth, isaiah, and me to this secret spot back in march so before i even thought of going there, i called made to ask. i respect surfers that turn me on to secrets so if i go back, i always ask. made told me it was going to be good and it sure was!!! thanks made for sharing me one of bali’s last secrets…. and nice wave this morning!!!
i always think surfing good waves is a bonus for me. i get such good waves all year around that i don’t expect to get better ones. so i paddle out and just surf kind of mellow. if i get one, great. if i don’t great too. in timor, i caught the longest left in my life. and this morning in bali, i got barreled with no one around. this is just one of many unridden barrels. is it a bonus? yup….
made does guides here in bali so if you want to stay right in front of changu at his house and surf secrets spots in bali, he’s your man. drop me an email and i’ll give you his number. here is made’s guest from australia. we surfed together this morning. it’s his first time to bali and i told him “he’s in good hands…..”
