Merry Christmas Darling!

284

what a perfect day in hawaii! had some things to catch up on so stayed in town running around. then looked at the ocean and decided to check out my secret spot. nobody out so i paddled out to get a few waves. great to be back in the clear ocean! going north shore tomorrow for sure!
kmphoto
want to meet the champion? well, tomorrow night is your chance for all of you in japan. Kelia Moniz is going to be in tokyo and you can meet the 2x World Champion! the last time we at Go-Naminori made a party for her in shonan, hundreds of people showed up and a lot even got turned away because it got too full. that was like 5 years ago before she even was a champion so i’m expecting a huge turnout for this event. i wish i could go too but i’ll see my beautiful niece when she gets back to hawaii on dec. 1. CLICK HERE FOR INFO ON TOKYO EVENT!
photo 2
i really don’t like to read books. why? because for 4 years in college, i had to read so many books! books on accounting, math, art, marketing, finance, economics, management, and all kinds. my brain was fried of reading! but everything changed last week in japan. Inaida-san bought me this book called IQ84 written by Haruki Murakami. i really didn’t want to pick it up at first but i peaked inside and thought i’d read chapter 1.
photo 1
now i’m on chapter 8 and i’m super hooked! this is a really interesting book of interesting people. it might take me a while but i’m determined to read all of it!
photo 3
so thick! i remember my professors in college made me read books like this. the would tell me, “read this book by next week and you will get an exam on it.” what??? and that was just 1 out of my 6 classes! thank good for coffee those days.
photo 4
wanted to thank Saito-san for this wonderful sweet gift. going to eat some for desert tonight.
ala moana santa
and yes, when santa claus goes up on ala moana shopping center, it means christmas is coming!
they played my all time christmas song on the radio today. it made me soooo happy! merry christmas everyone!!!! ho ho ho!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR1ujXx2p-I[/youtube]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide