good morning. 5:45am and the waves should be going off today. i’m out of here. woke up at 4am and was thinking about my day yesterday. i feel like spreading the aloha…. have a nice day and see you in the water….
**woke up yesterday morning and checked my email. gosh, how photos can make your day…
remember i told you about my sick backdoor barrel 2 days ago? well, there wasn’t one photographer on the beach so i knew that nobody got that photo of one of my best waves of the season. but to wake up the next morning and see this, gosh, i was super duper happy. my friend neal miyake shot it with his fisheye. this wave was perfect and now this photo will be in my collection forever….
i got barreled all the way through and when i came out, the spit blew me off the board. dam it felt so good…. neal told me he got pounded after he snapped this shot. i believe. i’ve been there and it ain’t fun. but gosh, being on both sides, surfer/photographer, i’ve learned a lot. i learned as a surfer on how to connect with photographers to get the shot. and i learned as a photographer how hard water photographers jobs are. you have to put yourself in the most critical part of the wave to get the shot. you could get hit by the wave, or the surfers board, or the reef. it’s a dangerous job and i respect water photographers 100 times more than i ever did… thanks guys…
then my next email was from u-ske. u-ske sent me these photos from 2 days ago too. this is me sticking my camera in the barrel to get the shot. it’s amazing i didn’t get sucked over the falls. this wave is pretty freakin hollow and big….
this photo is pretty sick too. look how beautiful and blue it is. i feel like jumping in the ocean right now. and that’s what i’m going to do. thanks neal and u-ske for the awesome photos… and thanks for making my day. i owe you guys….
