i had an awesome group of 5 surfers from oiso today. i knew the waves were going to be very challenging because of the winds. but hey, if you don’t go, you won’t know. so i meet the boys in waikiki and go straight to bowls. i knew it was going to be chest high and only a few people out. i ended up being wrong. it was head high and nobody out. sometimes it’s good to be wrong. haha.
we have the whole parking lot to ourselves. we have the whole beach to ourselves.
and we have the whole ocean to ourselves. i was telling the boys that i’d rather be surfing today than another typical sunday with 30 hungry locals out. just to paddle around and catch any wave you want is awesome. i was stoked to be in the ocean!
what a super cool way to spend the day. most tourists would be stuck in their rooms because of the heavy rain, but us surfers can enjoy the ocean rain or shine. it was the best place to be this morning for sure.
we get out there, the waves are head high and super consistent. on a typical off shore sunday, i’d say 4 waves each will be a good catch. today, everybody caught way more than 4 waves. and everybody today got to duck dive over a hundred times. now everybody is much stronger surfers. a few storms came through with rain stinging our faces. then we see the big one on the horizon. a big dark heavy cloud heading our way. how cool is this photo? and how cool is mother nature? super cool!
i caught my last wave in and when i did a cutback, i seen lighting flash off the water. freaking scary! i’ve lived in hawaii my whole life and the rain doesn’t get any heavier than this. but we all loved the experience.
then we dried up and and headed for the biggest prime lunch on the island. after this, i was so full!
anyway, wanted to thank Pocho, Fujita, Gasu, Kazu, and Zumi for a super interesting morning surf. and want to wish Gasu a happy wedding day tomorrow! keep on surfing boys!
