good morning. today is saturday so i’m taking a break. yesterday it took a lot of motivation to get me going to the north shore. waking up at 3:30 am, driving an hour, using $25 worth of gas, and paddling out at dark when the sharks are feeding is pretty discouraging. but when i caught my first wave in pitch dark going down the line on a 5′ set surfing into the full moonlight, it was all worth it. i was surprised to see one other surfer out there before me but next time, it’s not going to happen. i want to be the first out on the first wave of the day. then by the time the sun came out, i caught 10 perfect waves at lani’s from the outside all the way across. i went in by 7 am and i counted 30 surfers out. it felt good to have my first north shore session. i feel like i’m ready for anything!!!
i guess it’s safe to say that nobody got malaria on the last trip. even thought i was getting bitten my mosquitos and got worried at times, i feel pretty good. i hope everybody else is feeling the same. malaria is no joke and i know a lot of people who got it, most of them got treated, and a couple died….
every time i go to ubud, it takes my breath away….
by 7:30 am, i was at The Wailua Bakery ordering my breakfast, fried chicken…. then i almost fell asleep driving back to town in the rush hour traffic. imagine getting back home before 9 am? i felt like i already had a full day of fun and my day was just starting…
