another day of surfing! had so much fun again. it felt like summer again today. the weather was perfect! super warm, the water felt good, no need wetsuit, lots of waves, and very little people. it was probably the most peaceful day of the year in the water. no angry locals, no surf schools, and no noise. i could even hear the birds chirping while surfing. cool!
Hashimoto-san told me after we got out of the water, “i caught a years worth of waves this morning.” i get really happy to hear that! i love watching people catch so many waves and paddle back out with the biggest smile on their face. i was the only local out today so i told Hashimoto-san, “every wave is yours so GO!” and he went! thank you Hashimoto-san for a wonderful morning session! see you tomorrow! let’s go catch another years worth of waves!
i was driving towards diamond head today and noticed something different. it was all green!!! with all the rain we’ve been having, mother natures been watering the normally asahi super dry diamond head.
i’ve never seen it this green from the bottom to the top before. so beautiful!
then i picked up Tae-san for boot camp day 3. the past 2 days, Tae-san would have a habit of looking down, therefore falling. no matter how much i tell her to look up, she would look down. so today i tried something different. i was an asshole. i told her “you know what? i don’t care if you look down anymore. you will keep falling, and you will get hurt. mou shiranai!” next wave, Tae-san took off, looked up, and rode it perfectly. and every wave after that she looked up. sometimes being an asshole works. haha. being nice or mean, my main goal is to get people surfing safer and better. then after we paddled in, i felt bad.
sorry Tae-san for being mean today. i’ll do anything to get you surfing to the level you dream of. and thank you for the snacks! be ready tomorrow afternoon for boot camp day 4! ATTENTION!!!
