i pull up to pipeline early in the morning. the waves didn’t look too organized so i thought sunset would be better. i pull up, seen some nice 6-8′ waves, wax up, so happy to finally have a day of surfing to myself. i get out there, catch a few waves, feeling warm, looking for a barrel, then all of a sudden i hear “help! help! help!” i look in the impact zone and see this big hawaiian guy waving his hands and yelling for help. i wanted to paddle in to help him but there were some big sets coming so i waited on the outside. once the sets cleared, i look for him and he was gone. omg! i thought he drowned!!! i paddle in the zone looking for him, he was nowhere to be found. i make it to the shorebreak and i see him crawling up the beach. i run up to him and ask if he was ok. he said “yeah, my leash broke.” omg, i think the guy just panicked. i look back out and see it start to get crowded and said “forget it, i’m going back to town.” i was kind of bummed going in to look for the guy but if i didn’t and he drowned, i’d never forgive myself. i guess i did the right thing so i’m ok with that.
while we were diving yesterday, Kyle and Kekoa asked me if i wanted to join them for dinner. i said ok, but when i found out it was at somebody’s house i didn’t even know, i kind of didn’t want to go. it just feels weird going to people’s houses that you weren’t invited too. but after our dive and driving back to the harbor, we drank a beer and i was feeling good and hungry. i call up Eri-chan and say “hey girl, let’s go crash a party!” she said “who’s?” i said “i don’t know. but i know there will be good beers, good food, and good vibes.” i was right!
after we blessed the food, i told Eri-chan “hey, we crashed the party so you mine as well go first!” and she did. haha. we had such a great time enjoying good food and meeting new people. want to thank Lianne for not kicking us out and being so kind. i love your house, your view, and your interior design. next time i find out you have a party, i’ll come and crash it again. haha. and hey Eri-chan, you are a lucky girl! free food and even a free ride home. score.
and speaking of free, i went to my bank at kahala mall today and they had 2 sushi chefs making sushi for customers. free spicy tuna rolls and crab rolls! gosh, i’m a lucky guy recently getting all kinds of free deals. this is hawaii, and this is aloha.
tomorrow is the marathon in waikiki. 30,000 people mostly japanese. minnasan ganbatte!
