Raw Egg and Raw Fish

183

yeah, the weather is still been super warm. it’s december and the water is warm, sky is blue, and waves everywhere. enjoy it because i’m pretty sure the water will be colder soon and once the north winds come, get out the jackets.
photo 1
look at the beautiful egg my chickens are giving me now! perfect over the hot rice! ever since i got my chickens, i haven’t bought an egg from the supermarket. and i have absolutely no desire to eat one from the supermarket because i know these are the most freshest on the island.
photo 2
had a wonderful 3 days surfing with Yumi-san. this girl almost quit surfing last year after getting hurt by her own surfboard in isounora. now she’s surfing super good and with a lot of confidence. she didn’t fall even once yesterday. amazing! thank you Yumi-san for the great surf sessions! i’ll download the turtle photos off my camera next week and send them to you. have a safe trip back to japan and see you again!
photo 3
i’ve been using my boat more than ever recently. just to go out and spear one fish, it’s worth it. from the time i leave the harbor, i’m feeling the wind in my face and feeling so free. and once i jump into the underwater world, nothing in the world can bother me. it’s just me vs. nature. amazing!
photo 4
i go down 30′, look in a hole, see a menpachi way in the back, see an aggressive shark circling in the front, i wait for him to pass me, i go into the hole, spear the menpachi, bring it up, clean it, and take it home.
photo 5
not too big, not too small, but just perfect size!!!!
i’ll probably be back out there again this afternoon. i can’t wait for the wind on my face and to see what will be for dinner next.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide