Big Ono off Rabbit Island….

318

good evening. what another beautiful picture perfect day here in hawaii. waves all over the island. the north shore was pretty dam good and so was town. town had some chest high waves with offshore conditions. i think just about everybody is getting surfed out. well, everybody except me. the north/west swell is going to hang around for a while so expect perfect waves everywhere on the north shore. light trade winds for the next week so perfect conditions too. gosh, can it please rain so i can get things around my house done? i can’t focus on anything else when the weather and waves have been the way it’s been this past month…..

took a spin to the east side today. stopped by the pali to check out the panoramic view. shit, when i saw how nice the east side was, all i could think about was diving….

then stopped by lanikai beach. this beach was once rated number 1 of the world for the most beautiful beaches on the travel channel. i’ve been to many beaches before but nowhere comes close to this….

white sand, emerald color water, and blue sky. what more could you ask for. not too many tourists or japanese know about lanikai beach. it’s pretty hard to find. look good because once you find it, it’s all worth it….

just wanted to say thanks to kensuke and maki. had a great day with this brother and sister… keep on surfing…..
**got an email from kevin from okinawa. thanks kev. check it out….

So I was in Hawaii for three days and I got to get out with Kurt Chambers and Derek LeVault. We went to the back side of Rabbit island on wednesday. It was awesome! We had all intension of just freediving until we saw monsta Uku and Ono. Kurt landed one Ono and I shot another to only lose Kurts spear.
Also had an amazing steamed Mu dish. Oishi!
***and last, check this out!!! the next 5 day weather forecast. get your sunscreen, surfboards, and g-strings out. oh, i mean trunks… haha… continued paradise…..[:??????:][:??????:][:??????:]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide