what an awesome day! woke up early and knew pipeline was going to be huge, dangerous, and crazy. i load my 7’0 in the truck, stick my video camera in my pocket, and head in the craziest traffic to the north shore. there was no parking so i had to park my car way up by rocky point. usually i would check the waves but because i had to park so far away, i just grabbed my board, put on trunks, and headed to pipe. i watched it for little while talking to Tony, Tammy, Tokura-san, Kinsan, and Wade. the waves looked out of control and was still coming up. there were some huge sets and i was thinking to myself, “do i want to risk my life today?” well, my board was already on the beach and i had no choice but to paddle out. as i got closer to the waves, i couldn’t believe how much water was moving. i got swept down past ehukai by the current and it felt like a river. i get to the line up, take out my vid camera, and start shooting some crazy rides. my battery dies, i catch a wave and come in. 3 hours of pure adrenaline!
i rush home to download the footage off my camera. all i can say is Oh My Gosh!!! wait till you see it! it’s uploading now so should be up in 20min.
i posted the photo of the girl who lost her gopro at rock piles last night. this morning the texts started coming in. Mari-chan was the first to find the owner, she sent me this photo to confirm, her dad Kainoa called me, i met him this evening and gave him back the gopro. he was super happy and so was i.
then the dad gives me some homemade mango chutney. it was so weird that he worked for Hawaii Five-O. good thing i gave it back because he probably could have sent Steve McGarrett for me. haha.
the waves should still be big at pipe tomorrow morning. heard from Reid that bowls was going off too with overhead sets. another huge swell on christmas day! i’m so excited!!!
