good evening. wow, what another awesome day of surf on the north shore. went out early and freaking scored… the buoy went down last night and the surf report forecasted it to be 3-4′. i’m glad they were wrong…..
when i pulled up to backdoor, i seen perfect a-frame 6′ solid sets barreling. i ran to grab my board and paddled out. come to find out, the 6′ sets i seen wasn’t even the sets. there were some solid 8′ backdoor/pipe waves coming in pretty solid. i keep on saying this, but today was probably the best backdoor of this winter season. guys were getting barreled out of their minds. it was totally epic…. i seen australian pro surfer dean morrison get a sick barrel when i was paddling out. it was pretty weird because i was just watching him surf his quarter final heat against mick fanning a couple of days ago at the snapper rocks contest in australia. did he lose on purpose to jump on the next plane to hawaii? what ever it was, he looked pretty dam happy getting barreled all day long. a lot of my friends are calling this the best winter season EVER!! i totally agree. but if you came and left before last month, this season was probably the worst. i agree too. solid back to back swells with perfect light trade wind weather for the next week. i’m so burnt out but can’t stop having fun…[:??????:][:??????:]
i was at pipe/backdoor from 7am to 12pm. surfed in the morning and then watched my niece and nephews surf it. it was pretty solid but they still paddle out….
i’m so happy to be able to see some of my family surfing the north shore. but in about a year or so, these kids will probably be dropping in on me. then i won’t be so happy.. haha….
and last, just got the new go-naminori stickers printed out. because i’m so happy recently, i’ll give the first person to send me their name and address these 3 stickers for FREE!!! you’ll be the first because nobody has these yet…. one set for the first person in hawaii and one set for the first person in japan. ganbatte ne… oh, my email address is somewhere is to the left of my blog page…. surf your dream….
