yesterday was another hot amazing summer day! the hot weather with cool north/east winds made it perfect for both in and out of the water. diamond head was as beautiful as it gets.
Senchan is such a cool kid. a 20 year old college student in tokyo with many dreams! just talking to him was pretty cool because he reminded me of myself when i was that age. just waking up everyday and having fun! this kid surfed super good too. he only surfed 2x before but after a few waves, he was surfing like he’s been doing it for years! good job Senchan! study hard, strive for your dreams, and keep on surfing!
after surfing a long morning session, we were both hungry. decided to eat a big plate of mexican enchiladas with horchata. i was so full after eating all this!
had to let the stomach settle before our 2nd session so we took a spin up to tantalas. yes, it was beautiful as usual. and looking at green diamond head is kind of weird. i’ve never seen it this green before. i didn’t even know there were trees on that mountain.
look what opened up in kapahulu! the new Popeyes fried chicken restaurant! i’ve never tried it before but i heard that it’s the best fried chicken and mashed potatoes in the world. i’ll try it soon and by the look of the full parking lot, it must be pretty dam good!
2 more huge north/west swells on the way. lucky we live in hawaii!
