good morning. strong winds and big waves. today is the kind of day you have to know where to look. we’re surfing all day long again!!! see you in the water…
it’s taxi-san’s first time to hawaii. the first day, we surfed super fun chest high bowls with nobody around. it was a good warm up session for yesterday. why? because yesterday, i took him to the north shore for his first time. he was nervous but i know his surfing ability and i thought it was a good time for his debut on the north shore at waimea bay. yes, we paddled out, i kept on yelling “go, go, go.” and taxi-san went! he caught one wave and i said, “enough, let’s go in.” the waves were pretty dangerous. 8′ solid and super powerful. our boards were way too small but i just wanted to warm up for this season and also wanted taxi-san to take a good memory back to japan. all it takes is one wave to change your life…
we got cleaned up by some big sets but we’re alive. when taxi-san got back to the beach, i gave him a high five! good job taxi-san. your a very brave man. to paddle out to waimea bay on a 6’6 is crazy! i didn’t take you out there for the glory, i took you out there for the experience. nothing can scare you anymore!
as for today? we’ll just have to wait and see. going surfing!!!
