hard core surfers wake up early, drive for hours, and will practically do anything for that perfect wave. you can call us hard core, or you can call us crazy. all i can say is that every dollar and every hour is worth it and we’ll probably do this forever!!!
it’s unbelievable how junky, rainy, cold one day can be. then the next is one of the best days in japan surfing history? i’m still in a daze… never say never….
ikeya-san is what you call a heavy japanese local surfer. 18 years ago when i first met him, i was scared as shit! i couldn’t get a wave at their heaviest localized point in japan without somebody riding in the front of me, in back of me, or even on me. it was pretty heavy and frustrating. but then i kept on showing up by myself and trying and trying until i think he finally felt sorry for me. haha… we are friends now and i’m always happy to see him. this is one local that’s shared some of the best waves i’ve ridden in my life. thank you ikeya-san for everything!!! you locals are all cool and i’m stoked to be welcomed at one of my favorite waves in the world!!!
