good evening. yet another epic day of surfing here in hawaii. pulled up to backdoor before 7am and i was surprised that there were still waves. it was 3-5′ and perfect…..
guys are calling this the best winter season ever. it’s just been perfect for too long. i’ve been surfing the north shore for 22 years and this is as good as it gets. anyway, i paddled out on my 6’6 and i felt like it was on a 5’10. there was just too much water moving out there. caught a wave, buckled my board, and came in. the one broken board a day rule was out. it was still 7:30 and i wasn’t finished. so i go back to my car and grab my magic 7’0. a board i’ve gotten the best barrels in my life on. had it for 5 years and never ever pull into close outs with it. caught a few good waves and was having a good session. then about 9am, i caught a wave and started paddling back out. and there it was, a solid 5′ set ready to break in front of me. should i hold on to my board and try to duck dive? wait, matchi did that last month and ended up in the hospital. so i decided to throw it on the side and dive under. SNAP!! shit…. i came up and my baby was broken. i felt like punching something…. ahhhhh….. luckily i go to anger management. haha. just joking… i was going to grab another board but i thought that if i broke 3 boards today, i would get fired. haha… sorry tssc. but i really need to order some new boards…. my winter season has just begun….
as i was walking to my car with my broken board, i saw kamio. he opened his trunk and gave me a six pack of beer. freakin stoked….. i drank all six of them warm on my way back to town…. [:?????????:][:?????????:] just joking….
last night, i ate a huge turkey drumstick. it was so good….. finger lickin good…..
**and wanted to thank all of you who sent me an email about the free stickers. gosh, i woke up this morning and had over 100 emails. i sent out to the first few people. so congratulations to kinji-san from osaka, daisuke-san from miyazaki, takeshi-san from aomori, and yukinori-san from hawaii. it’s already in the mail so you should be getting it soon. enjoy. and for the rest of you who sent me an email about the stickers, sorry. it would take me a week to send it out to everybody. i’ll give some more stickers away in the near future…. mahalo….
**now to leave you with a scary airplane ride. glad i wasn’t on that flight…..
