yesterday was another fun day of surfing. nobody can believe how fast Hiyori-chan got in such a short time. starting off on a 11’0, then a 10’0, then a 9’0, 6’8, and now on a 7’0. all in the last 2 weeks is amazing. i let her experience all different kinds of boards and this 7’0 was the best. thank you Toda-san for letting us borrow your board! big smiles from hawaii!
i sat on my boat and watched Hiyori-chan catch a wave by herself. just the determination is incredible. i can see her concentrating on the wave, the moment, and the reward. surfing will change this girls life and after she told me she already asked her mom if she can get a board when she goes back to japan, that made me so happy that Hiyori-chan has the desire to continue surfing.
today is her last day and it’s really going to be hard to say goodbye tomorrow. i get sad even thinking about it. i wish she can live with me forever but i know she has many love ones in japan waiting for her return. every time i see Hiyori-chan, she makes me happy. what this little girl has gone through is too hard to talk about. but what this little girl has ahead of her is going to be amazing. keep on surfing and keep on smiling Hiyori-chan! you did a great job and we are all very proud of you!
