had a great time with Koguma-san at diamond head. just walking down this path looking at the ocean gets me excited. you just never know what will be waiting for you at the bottom.
this day, a rare sight of a hawaiian monk seal sleeping on the beach.
i always try to explain about the reef at diamond head. i seen too many people paddle straight out to the lineup and get stuck over the reef that pops up if you’re not careful. cuts on hands or broken fins is not a good way to start off your surf session. remember always to paddle straight out through the narrow channel, go outside, then paddle to the lineup.
then once you get out, you can have a happy surf session. Koguma-san is always happy when he comes to hawaii.
the waves were small so i had a hard time surfing. but Koguma-san ripped it up! if we were surfing a contest heat, i would have lost for sure.
and yeah, sharing is caring. and yeah, having fun is what surfing is all about.
photos by Daniel Pinho.
thank you Koguma-san for the fun, laughs, and kitkat! see you next year!
