with a huge storm approaching the island, timing is key in getting good waves. woke up early, checked it and looked terrible. then around 8am, things started to change. the winds turned and cleaned up town. i call Miwa-san, head down to the harbor, pick her up for a long morning session.
it’s always good to see Miwa-san. a girl with big dreams, one of them is to live in paradise! i think it will happen someday but until then, being happy and enjoying life is what she’s doing. i pick her up in my floating car.
then we enter the ocean from the opposite side. a close paddle, good waves, we surf for 3 hours, catch long rides, a lot of smiles, and then the storm approaches. it went from perfect sunny weather to one of the darkest days of the year.
the girls were swimming in the pool as the storm approached. 1 minute after they got out, the rain and thunder came down hard!
so we warm up by eating pho at the new Pho Saigon. probably one of the best pho in hawaii. very clean, very tasty, and very hot. just order the beef balls or rare meat because the chicken is a little dry. $9 and very happy.
my job should be the weatherman. nobody watches the wind, sky, clouds, radar, and waves more than me.
then Katsura-san and i paddle out for a quick afternoon session. a new experience, great rides, and a big smile. another great day in paradise!
huge swell on friday. stay tuned!
