i was in the water yesterday when i recognized this girl i’ve met before. could it be her? could it be the girl that dug out reef from my foot at the surf camp in G-Land, Indonesia 15 years ago? could it be?
so we all go out to dinner last night and the girl shows up again. could it be? yes it was. it was hikaru-san! the same girl who was kind enough to dig reef out of my foot with a needle 15 years ago in indonesia. a former pro surfer from japan… good to see you again hikaru-san….
by the way, check out the jack-san present toda-san and takami-san gave me for my birthday and christmas present. i’m so stoked!!!!
i swear we’ve been scoring some epic sessions recently. it is north shore winter season in full swing and every pro surfer from around the world is in hawaii now. november and december is the time i try to avoid crowds so i get up early, find out where nobody is, and go surf there. rina-chan also knew where to go. check her out on this nice wave having a nice ride….
