Bilingual Surfer

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had another great day in the ocean. surfed 2 rounds before 11am and felt like i already had a fulfilled day. it was hot, the waves were glassy, and no crowd! it was another hot summer day in hawaii.
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went to surf early morning with Miwa-san at bowls. there were only 3 other surfers out and we had the inside bowl to ourselves. had a great time surfing, talking, and laughing. when i first met Miwa-san a few years ago, we had little to talk about. but now, we can keep talking forever. and the top subject is how to enjoy life! surf and enjoy is the way to go and we both agree on that!
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and i was stoked to see Miwa-san surfing so good on this trip. she caught a lot of waves and kept on smiling!
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thank you Miwa-san for a wonderful time in hawaii. thank you for always translating my blogs. i’m so happy to have you a part of this wonderful surfing world. keep on surfing and i will see you again soon! hope you had a safe flight back to japan. aloha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide